When Sean Penn’s character Jeff Spicoli uttered “Hey bud, let’s party!” in ‘Fast Times at Ridgemont High,’ surfers have gotten a bad rap as being labeled flaky party animals. Filmmaker Rory Kennedy’s doc ‘Take Every Wave: The Life of Laird Hamilton’ breaks that myth by chronicling the greatest big-wave surfer in the world. It’s a highly entertaining look at Laird Hamilton’s fascinating life and extreme-sports career. It should be noted that Hamilton has never competed in the sport professionally. He attributes his rejection to surf contests in “being judged.” In fact according to his stepfather Bill, “He doesn’t like to lose.” Kennedy skillfully crafts a thorough character study of a fearless and disciplined athlete. Together with breathtaking action sequences of big-wave riding, ‘Take Every Wave’ is an epic surf film.
Born in San Francisco in 1964, his father joined the Merchant Marines and was absent in his upbringing. His mother Joann moved them to Oahu where Laird met the 1960s surfer Bill Hamilton. Bill married Joann and became Laird’s adoptive father. They lived in walking distance to the North Shore where the young boy was constantly around the legendary local surfers riding the famous Pipeline. Laird was a mischievous kid that quickly gained the respect of his peers by ferociously going after every big wave. He eventually dropped out of school to surf full-time. To make ends meet, he discovered there was money to be made as a model from his longtime friend Buzzy Kerbox. Laird’s only problem is that he would never subject himself to the demeaning casting calls. He also played a jerk in the cheesy surf drama ‘North Shore’ which left some viewers thinking that he really was the character.
Instead of entering surf competitions, Laird followed a different path. His sturdy physique and gifted talents were a perfect match for big-wave surfing. He was a pioneer in developing the tow-in method with a jet ski and the foilboard which allowed him to ride huge waves. These techniques are controversial for the surfing purist but it would be impossible to paddle into massive waves without this gear. He silenced critics when he shocked the surfing world to ride the dangerously shallow Teahupo’o Reef in Tahiti. On August 17, 2000 Laird is filmed surfing what is considered “the heaviest wave ever ridden.” Once the photos hit the surf magazines, there was no denying his place as one of the greatest surfers in the history of the sport. Laird sadly reminisces that he wished his mother were still alive to witness that achievement which made the cover of her favorite magazine National Geographic.
As Laird’s popularity grew as a professional surfer, he met his future wife volleyball player Gabrielle Reece. They met on a TV shoot in the ‘90s and have been together ever since. As Reece confides, when you live with a guy like this you have your ups and downs but she understands the challenges of living with a competitive athlete since she’s a former one herself. One downside to his fame is the dismantling of the “Strapped” crew that included Buzzy Kerbox, Darrick Deorner and Dave Kalama. They took their name from the Velcro straps that kept their feet on their boards. If it weren’t for the help of his tight-knight surf buddies, he would never have conquered the Pe’ahi break of Maui nicknamed “Jaws.” It is impossible to paddle out to these massive 60 feet or higher waves without jet skis and using the tow-in surfing method. Laird says “Big dogs eat first” which not only applies to his aggressive style of grabbing every wave but taking advantage of lucrative sponsorship deals.
Besides touching on some of the drama in Laird’s life on land, the documentary really excels when it hits the surf and captures spectacular waves of up to 100 feet. Even if you have never dipped your toe into the Pacific Ocean, watching Laird catch these massive waves is captivating to watch. ‘Take Every Wave: The Life of Laird Hamilton’ is a remarkable story of an athlete that changed the sport of big-wave surfing forever.
