The talented filmmaker Paul Thomas Anderson (Boogie Nights, There Will Be Blood) presents a gothic romance in his latest film titled, ‘Phantom Thread.’ It’s more about relationship and power than a love story. Set in the fashion world, it is not really about clothes although the costume designs are beautiful. The story has more to do with obsession that usually leads to toxic consequences. It is how Anderson effortlessly transforms the love story to a surreal Hitchcockian thriller that makes it so compelling to watch. ‘Phantom Thread’ is a masterwork about the tragic parallels between the creation and destruction of art and love.
Reynolds Woodcock (Daniel Day-Lewis) is a celebrated dressmaker in 1950s London. We get a sense of Reynolds meticulous perfectionism from his daily morning routine. In the opening montage, he shaves, snips his nose and ear hairs and pulls up his socks with vigor. At breakfast, he quietly sketches away when a young woman offers him a pastry. He looks at her like she’s an alien. She asks him, “Where have you gone, Reynolds? He later consults with his sister Cyril (Lesley Manvile) how to discard of his latest muse that ceases to inspire him. Reynolds affectionately refers to his sister as “my old so-and-so.” She takes care of the business side of the fashion house so her brother can focus on his new creations. It is an engrossing performance by Day-Lewis who makes his character so real. It has always been his forte to immerse himself into obsessive men that are unable to fully love.
Reynolds jumps into his Bristol 405 roadster and heads for a seaside town for some much-needed relaxation. Over breakfast, he meets his next muse, Alma (Vicky Krieps) who waits on his table. It’s a beautiful scene of innocent flirtation. He orders a large breakfast as he sets his sights on the young beauty. She surrenders to his charm and meets him for dinner. He talks about his deceased mother and how he leaves secret messages in the lining of his handmade dresses. When the conversation wanes Alma says, “If you want to have a staring contest with me, you will lose.” It soon becomes evident that Alma is not as passive as the other Muses that have come before her. Reynolds invites her to his country home not to seduce her into bed but to take her measurements for a dress. When he fits her into a dress, he remarks that she has “no breasts.” When Alma apologizes about her body, he adds “Oh no, you’re perfect.”
When Alma moves into Reynolds’ townhouse, she soon realizes her role as muse and model. She sleeps in a room next to his but sex is never shown on screen. At times, it feels like she is more of a living mannequin rather than equal partner in their relationship. When they walk together along the bay, Reynolds is excited that he has found her. She confides to him, “Whatever you do, do it carefully.” Back in London, Alma gets a taste of Reynolds’ compulsive behavior when she butters her toast and pours tea too loudly at breakfast. His sister Cyril understands that if breakfast isn’t right, it throws off his entire day. Alma defiantly says, “He’s too fussy.” She eventually concedes and is shown quietly eating breakfast in order not to disturb him. Krieps delivers a breakout performance as the tortured muse. In many scenes, she goes toe-to-toe with the great Day-Lewis. It’s intriguing to watch her fight back a powerful man that is trying to control and manipulate her.
For aficionados of Paul Thomas Anderson’s filmography, there is a lot to admire about ‘Phantom Thread.’ It’s primarily about how obsession can be a gift as well as a curse. Reynolds is a gifted artist but he takes his artistry to such extremes that it destroys everyone that gets in his way to his next creation. The scene at breakfast where he needs complete silence to focus on his sketches is a prime example. When his young lover wants to chat with him over tea and a pastry, he looks at her like she’s an insect that needs to be exterminated. Reynolds is always working and never seems to be completely satisfied with his latest creation. Here’s a man that is praised by celebrities and beautiful models but never seems to enjoy the fruits of his labor. It seems like this is the curse of creative geniuses. They are constantly shooting for perfection but never seem to fully reach it. This is supposedly Daniel Day-Lewis’ last film and it is tailor-made for his acting range. ‘Phantom Thread’ casts a remarkable spell and should not be missed by cinephiles.
